Carter’s Kitchen No. 9
Jesper Sjödahl, Sweden
Jesper Sjödahl, Sweden
I’ve been following Jesper’s journey since he and his partner ran a grocer and cafe a few years ago. It looked like my dream store and cafe, and reminded me of Leila’s Shop in London. Jesper’s a chef and he wrote a book called Nothing New which I have and love. He now lives in Sweden with his partner Kathe and their red setter Charlie. I’m hope I can try his food someday!
Where is your kitchen, and what does it look out onto?
Our kitchen is at the centre of our home. Standing in it, I look out over our living room where our dog Charlie is napping, and beyond that our balcony looking out over a schoolyard, a beautiful old building that used to house a shoe factory, and the treetops of the park we live next to and go for our walks.
What’s the first thing you do when you walk into it?
At this time of the year I usually check the ripeness of the stone fruit sitting on the counter.
What’s usually left out on the bench or always within reach?
Within arms reach from the stove are fresh eggs; the butter dish; the olive oil jug; fine and flakey salt; pepper mill; a bundle of dried oregano; and a small jar of powdered basque chili pepper. There is also a heavy mortle and pestle and a few mugs and jugs with wooden spoons and utensils.
What do you make when you don’t feel like cooking at all?
Beans and greens. I always have cooked beans, lentils or chickpeas sitting in the fridge. After wilting some spinach and dressing it with lemon and olive oil, toasting bread and cutting a piece of cheese the meal is ready.
What’s something you cook on repeat?
Once again: beans. Other than that, not a day goes by without black coffee, herbal tea, bread and plenty or fresh fruit.
Who or what taught you how to cook?
Working with some excellent cooks gave me the foundation, but getting to know and working with excellent farmers and producers is what made me cook the way I do today.
Describe a meal that felt really good recently.
Last week at the market, I got the first cauliflower of the season. I boiled it as soon as we came home, and made a simple anchoïade (garlic, anchovies, a raw egg yolk, red vinegar and olive oil) which I then spooned over.
Who do you most like cooking for (or eating with)?
I cook for my partner Kathe everyday, and I don’t think that will ever stop bringing me joy.
What’s a small food ritual or habit you have?
Unpacking a market haul on our kitchen table and admiring it is always a very precious moment.
What did you is something you love making?
My favourite at the moment is making pastry: shortcrust, puff pastry or whatever it may be. I dream of someone showing me how to make filo!
Where do you eat your meals most of the time?
Seated at the table (and whenever possible outside on a bench, log or blanket).
What do you like listening to in your kitchen?
I usually listen to whatever is on NTS radio, and lately I’ve also been listening to a lot of Carla dal Forno’s new album; a fun little record called ‘Joyama no Narazumono’; anything from the great Studio One vault (always) and, since it’s summer, plenty of Jonathan Richman.
What’s something slightly imperfect in your kitchen that you still use?
For some reason we don’t own any deep oven dishes, which I am reminded of anytime I make a lasagna or gratin (with a small jolt of panic). Each time I find a solution (perhaps using two bread tins or a dutch oven), tell myself to finally get one, then always forget until next time.
A meal or food moment that stays with you:
As a graduation trip when I was in my late teens, me and a few friends saved up and travelled to Nice, France.
One warm night, looking for a place to eat we stumbled upon a tiny restaurant run by a couple where the husband cooked and the wife served.
There, we had the most simple, beautiful and generous meal of small black olives, tomato tart, pâtés au pistou, beef daube and peaches in rosé wine. The restaurant is called La Merenda and has remained a special place for me ever since. I have revisited many times, but no visit will ever top the first one.
Follow Jesper here and you can purchase a copy of his book directly from him or from here.
Jesper loves cooking and eating beans, and I do too. But I often used canned beans for quick meals. Recently I saw Jesper finishing a dish with a dollop of crème fraîche. I tried it and it added a delightful creaminess without being overly rich. It was smooth and silky and delicious. Here’s how I did it.
